Travel Journal : Surfing in Santa Cruz, CA

Written by Chris Pattillo

As a surfer, I can’t help but wonder what the other drivers are thinking, as I make my way through the last curvy stretch of highway 17 before entering Santa Cruz. Personally, I have goosebumps thinking about the coming swells, the silent waves of energy that began their journey on the Bering Sea over a week ago. Tomorrow these waves are going to come to a sudden stop on the reefs and shorelines of Central California. Do any of these other drivers know?

To many people, Santa Cruz is just another town on Monterey Bay, but to surfers it is something more. Home to Santa Cruz Surfboards, Bob Pearson’s Arrow Surfshop, eccentric Jack O’Neill and his famed wetsuit company, and a legendary local pro crew that includes the likes of: Ratboy, Skindog, Flea, and Barney, Santa Cruz is the proving ground for coldwater surfing. It is known for its die-hard localization at some spots, and anything goes, everybody- dropping-in-on-everybody mellow, Malibu-like style at others.

Located on the Northern tip of Monterey Bay, Santa Cruz is the land of right-hand point breaks. Pleasure Point and Steamer Lane are the two marquee surf spots, both oriented to catch swell from pretty much any direction. The Capitola Wharf and Cowell’s beach are located at the base of Pleasure Point and Steamer Lane, respectively. Both of these areas are beginner and SUP friendly, offering a crowded but fun atmosphere to score great Central California waves.

What has drawn me here today is the lure of my favorite wave in the area; Middle Peak at Steamer Lane. Middle Peak is a large, dishy right and sometimes left that provides for some wildly steep drops and mettle-testing wipeouts. I am putting on my best manners and my burliest leash, and going into the fray with my SUP to grab a few. Dawn patrol helps increase the odds of actually getting some waves without the crowds.

Every once in a while, the left is in play….but hold on to your board, and be prepared to have a close encounter with the rocks. It can be worth it, but the rest of the set is going to land on your head. The left is not safe on a SUP unless no one is in the slot, but sometimes there is not a huge crowd just before dark.

Victimized by the Steamer backwash! Smaller Photos 5314, 15, 16

I like to rehydrate and refuel a couple of craft beers from Santa Cruz Mountain Brewing, and Pole and Kalua pork at Pono. SCMB is a locals’ spot that has a cash bar with great prices on the best beer in the area. Paula’s is my go-to spot to pre-surf breakfast.